A Taste of Bergen, Norway

Norway Roadtrip-0870.jpg

A visit to Norway means magnificent scenery; I’m talking “super fjords” as far as the eye can see and hair-raisingly narrow mountain roads to navigate. There’s sensational seafood to eat and a fiercely patriotic and affable Norwegian people to share it all with.

We began our two week Norwegian adventure in the capital city, Oslo, taking the early morning train on The Bergen Railway from east to west across the Norwegian countryside. The Bergen Railway is considered to be one of the world’s most scenic train rides, a seven-hour journey which brings you across one of Europe’s highest mountain plateaus, carrying you through spectacular and varied nature. The journey is a wonderful introduction to the Norwegian landscape and being on a train means you can sit back, relax and soak it all in. (Traveler's Tip: for the best views out the window, reserve seats in Comfort class on the left hand side of the train, choosing seats facing in the direction the train is headed.)

Bergen is Norway’s second largest city, and lies clambering up the mountainsides, overlooking the sea, embracing you. You can roam through living history in this modern city, before continuing on to explore the wildest and loveliest fjords of Norway. On a Norwegian scale, Bergen is a large city, but one with a small-town charm and atmosphere. Its passionately patriotic inhabitants are proud of their many-sided city and its history and cultural traditions.
- visitnorway.com -

Bergen View Up-0485.jpg

We adored our three days exploring Bergen, walking and eating our way around this vibrant city. Absolutely determined to eat like Norwegians rather than tourists, we took some helpful advice from a local chef on where to go for the best Norwegian fare and then cobbled together our very own little food tour of Bergen. As we walked the cobblestone streets, it was like a step back in time, weaving our way from our hotel Zander K, located near the central train station, down intimate laneways to the harbour and the wharf area, known as Bryggen. There the landscape is a fanciful array of colourful old buildings, housing cafes, restaurants, hotels and little shops selling mink fur coats and leather goods. We visited the out-door fish market, a collection of stalls located on the waterfront, where we tasted hot smoked salmon with fragrant spices, and smoked whale meat was also on offer. The Fisketorget (the indoor fish market) which is somewhat more upmarket and pricey to match, was a joy for Mr G to browse, seeing varieties such as monk fish, halibut, place, salmon, mackerel, sweet shrimp, crayfish and king crabs. Across the road, another seafood stop worth visiting was Strandkien Fisk, where we headed to grab a couple of the much talked about Norwegian fish cakes; lightly fried, fluffy on the inside and crisp on the outside.

Bergen Harbour Front 4-0455.jpg
Bergen at Hot Smoked Salmon-0392.jpg

To really see this city, it’s best to see it from high up. Bergen is surrounded by seven mountains and it’s worthwhile heading up one of them to capture the view. The Flobanien, a funicular that runs from behind Bryggen, will conveniently have you up high on Mount Floyen in fifteen minutes. However, we decided to get some exercise doing the forty five minute walk to the top, filling up on fresh air instead. The panorama of the surrounding city and waterways, was more and more spectacular the higher we went and there’s nothing better than a brisk uphill climb to stoke the appetite, particularly when you have planned to lunch at one of Norway’s finest restaurants, Lysverket.

Bergen Down-0495.jpg
Bergen Paul & Jane 2-0494.jpg

Lysverket is such a beautiful light filled space, the food so well executed and the service from a young French girl, currently studying in Bergen, was warm and friendly. The restaurant is located in the art museum KODE 4 at the Grieghallen, overlooking a fountain-laced park, in the heart of Bergen. All the ingredients here are foraged or locally sourced by Norwegian native and head chef Christopher Haatuft (ex Per se chef in New York). Mr G opted for the famed Fiskesuppe (Bergen Fish Soup), here they serve a modern take on the traditional Bergen fish chowder, presenting a creamy soup with large pieces of fish and root vegetables, finished with a drizzle of leek oil and pickled celeriac - served with sourdough bread and organic butter. I chose to get messy with the Fried Fish Burger, a succulent piece of cod, enclosed in a crunchy crumb, with kimchi and yoghurt dressing served on a seeded brioche bun. The food was simple and delicious and a true taste of local Norway.

IMG_6884_diningroom_lowres.jpg
IMG_6881_diningroom2_lowres.jpg
IMG_6888_fishsoup_lowres.jpg
Bergen Lysverket Burger-0429.jpg

For our second panoramic experience of this picturesque city, we took the Ulriken643 cable car to the very top of the highest mountain in Bergen, Ulriken. It’s not for the faint hearted, another hair-raising ride with exceptional views as you go, and in early Spring there was still a little snow on the ground at the top. You can also hike this mountain and many were, however we opted for the cable car and it was a whole lot of fun.

Bergen Ulvrik Cable Car-0547.jpg

For our final night in Bergen, we dined at Pingvinen, a relaxed eatery/bar said to be serving up the ‘real deal’ in Norwegian fare. Tucked in a little cobblestone side street, this homely little pub on a corner was the epitome of “no frills”, except for the lace curtains on the front window. The place was packed with locals and tourists eating and drinking, enjoying the locally brewed beers. I had my first taste of Norwegian meatballs served with mushy peas, potatoes, gravy and lingonberry jam, while Mr G had the wild deer (locally caught in Flam) stewed with mash potatoes. We felt like apprentice Vikings gobbling into such hearty fare!

Bergen Bunting-0474.jpg
IMG_6924_meatballs_lowres.jpg

One thing Norway certainly is not, is a bargain holiday destination. We found it expensive to eat out and get around,* however it was often only a small gap in pricing between eating westernised “rubbish” tourist food and seeking out the finer dining or local out of the way places to dine. It was really worth the research and a few extra dollars invested, to eat the Norwegian fare and get a real taste of Bergen, Norway.

*Another Traveler's Tip: It is particularly expensive if you hire a car to get around, high fuel costs, unavoidable toll roads and car ferries to pay for. However, being that we are not fans of the organised bus tour and cruise ships, where one is subject to another’s timetable and agenda and at the mercy of the habits of unknown traveling companions, we chose the self-drive option for the next ten days we spent exploring more of Norway. This afforded us the luxury and freedom of thoroughly traversing the countryside, crossing the tapestry of fjords it boasts and stopping for fjord side picnics and magical photo opportunities anywhere along the way we felt inclined.

Norway Roadtrip Ulriik Fjord-0902.jpg

A Taste of Gothenburg, Sweden

A Taste of Gothenburg, Sweden

In May, we traveled a very long way away to see for ourselves this little country with some big exports, and it was such a treat to discover Sweden in the springtime. What follows is my Swedish smorgasbord (smorgas meaning ‘open sandwich’ and ‘bord’ meaning table) of what we ate and drank, for the handful of days we thoroughly enjoyed together, in Goteburg, Sweden.

Read More

Byron Bay Eats

Byron Bay Eats

You've got just one day in Byron Bay - where would you eat?
Recently I was faced with this wonderful opportunity to eat my way around Byron Bay, combined with a healthy dose of exercise in between meals, to further stoke the appetite! Organic plant-based fare served thoughtfully at FOLK Cafe, or bacon and egg butties, green curry of fish, crispy pork belly roll with Asian pickles and our popular three cheese toastie with homemade mustard pickles are amongst the standard offerings at 100 Mile Table and then a fun night out finding a bowl of great Chinese in Byron, at DUK Chinese Eating House. 

Read More

Travel Play Live Women's Adventure Summit 2017

Travel Play Live Women's Adventure Summit 2017

Hats off to the two women behind the Travel Play Live magazine and the TPL Women's Adventure Summit, Amy and Kez are courageous pioneers, creating a space for women to get outdoors and get their adventure on. The most excellent news is, The Travel Play Live Women's Adventure Summit is on again Thursday 30th August - Sunday 2nd September 2018 and you have the opportunity to join us. I'll be there to cook, play and adventure some more. Why don't you come too?

Read More

Milkhaus Wholefoods Canteen

Milkhaus Wholefoods Canteen

Drawing inspiration from her extensive culinary travels, Dan McKeon weaves together extraordinary fusions of your favourite foods, and introduces you to new ones in the process. You’ll find her in the kitchen or the garden, armed with spatula or fork, respectively. Happily, Dan agreed to answer a few questions about her love for food and how Milkhaus came to be, and what she is looking to achieve in this small-town, wholefood canteen.

Read More

The Old Schoolhouse, Milton NSW

The Old Schoolhouse, Milton NSW

Recently we spent three days and two nights staying at The Old Schoolhouse Milton and it was delightful. The Old Schoolhouse is an historic home well known in the district, set on two and a half acres of tranquil lawns and orchard with rural views in all directions. The old schoolhouse itself is long gone, but the historic Schoolmaster’s residence remains.

Read More

Battered Flathead with Kale and Carrot Slaw

Battered Flathead with Kale and Carrot Slaw

Mr G caught flathead in numerous places on our road trip adventures - we were flat-out eating flathead. We stayed with friends on the East Coast of Tasmania, who when they aren’t feeding their sheep escape to ‘the shack’ at Coles Bay to catch flathead by the boat-full and cook them up in a crispy batter for breakfast. 

Read More

'Tis the season to stop!

'Tis the season to stop!

'Tis the season to stop!
It's been quite the year 2016, boxes are ticked with the second cookbook on the shelves and our final child finished school, but I'm ending it all just a little weary. It seems when you burn the candle at both ends for a whole year, you eventually run out of wax - I think I'm going to fall over the finish line at the end of this week and then proceed to lay horizontal for quite some time. I'm so thankful for what's been done and just as thankful to have the chance to stop.

Read More